Information About Diving Equipment
Standard Diving Equipment
The Wet / Dry Suit
This full exposure suit is used to protect the diver and keep him protected and warm. The average suit can come as a full suit, shorty (cropped at the arms and legs) or in 2 pieces. Usually made of neoprene offers warmth and protection against the elements.
They can come in various colours, sizes and thickness (rangeing from 2mm up to 7mm +). The thicker the suit the more warmth it gives but is more bouyant. A wetsuit will allow water to wash through and will give the greatest heat loss, a Semi dry suit will trap a layer of water between the diver and the suit which will be heated up by the body slowing down the heat loss.
Both usually have zips at the back, although a lot of shorty’s will have a front zip.
Neoprene will make the diver very buoyant in the water.
A dry suit does not allow water penetration but instead allows air to be inserted into the suit which the body will warm up to keep the diver warm. Comes in either a membrane material or compressed neoprene and will have a hose connection attached to the divers first stage to allow inflation, as well as a valve to allow air to be vented. We recommend you take the PADI dry suit course if you intend to use a dry suit for diving.
Optional extras include hoods, gloves and boots.
Back to TopThe Mask, Snorkel and Fins
Human eyes do not work well under water a mask is essential to allow the diver to see the under water world. Masks comes in a wide variety of colours, shapes and sizes.
When buying a mask always make sure the mask fits well and allows you to pinch your nose (for equalisation purposes). The best method to see if a mask fits is to place the mask over your face, making sure there are no trapped hair and inhale through your nose, if the mask sticks to your face it is a good fit.
A handy tip when you first get your mask and before you use it, is to smear a smooth toothpaste over the lenses on the inside and leave over night. When you wash the toothpaste off this should prevent the mask fogging up.
The snorkel is essential and will allow the diver to breath on the surface and in rough seas and help conserve his/her air supply for the dive ahead.
Optional extras include neoprene strap covers which allow the mask to be fitted over the hair/head with ease, drain valves for the snorkel and some mask’s can be fitted with prescription lenses.
The Fins help propel the diver though the water, and come in many sizes and shapes. If your diving on a regular basis we recommend Fins that fit onto boots, this helps protect your feet while walking around especailly on rocky dive sites.
The Buoyancy Control Device / Stabilising Jacket
The Buoyancy Control Device (BCD) or Stabilising Jacket (Stab Jacket), is essentially a waist coat that will house the divers rig (tank and regulators), and will allow the diver to manage his/her buoyancy in the water.
BCD`s come in various sizes and shapes, a wing type BCD (mainly used when a diver has a twin tank set up) is basically the same but inflates just at the back, as opposed to a waist coat design.
Most jackets buckle up at the front and shoulder straps and some come with a waist band that fits around the diver waist.
The BCD is inflated via a hose which will be linked to the divers tank via the first stage and will have inflate and deflate buttons and toggles. Most jackets will have additional deflation valves usually located on the shoulder and the back.
The jacket basically consist of a bladder that when fully inflated will keep the diver very positively buoyant and afloat at the surface. The valves will allow air to be vented should the jacket become over filled.
Jacket will usually have front pockets for storing equipment as well as D rings and straps for keeping your equipment tidy.
Optional extra include integrated weight systems, which is becoming the standard.
Back to TopThe Tank
The tank will contain the divers air supply or exotic gasses if qualified to dive. Divers must be trained in the use of Nitrox/Trimix etc before they are allowed to dive with such gasses.
Tanks usually contains compressed air, and on average are filled to about 200 bar.
Can be made out of either aluminium or steel, the advantage of aluminium is it is light weight as opposed to a steel tank. Steel tanks however can generally be filled to a higher pressure.
Size is measured in most countries in litres(L), most popular sizes are 8L , 10L, 12L, and 15L.
The tank will have a valve at the top in either a Din valve (screw in system) or a international A clamp. Din systems are consider to be more secure.
Most tanks can be converted to either Din or A clamp by the insertion or removal of the insert.
All tanks will have a screw valve to open and shut the tank and an ‘o’ring which will seal the connection between the fist stage and the tank.
Tanks must be tested on a regular basis and must have a valid test date stamp before any dive shop will fill them.
Back to TopFirst Stage / Second Stage (Demand Valve) / Console and Instruments.
The first stage attaches to the tank valve either a Din or A clamp system. This will then allow the diver to attach his second stage DV, consoles/instruments and BCD to the tank.
They will have both low pressure and high pressure slots.
The second stage or Demand Valve (DV) or regulator is the bit you put in your mouth and will deliver the air at the same pressure you are currently diving at.
Designed to work best when under pressure / water.
At the surface it will deliver the air at a pressure of 1bar/1atm,however, when submerged at 10 metres will deliver the air at 2bar/2atm and so on.
Regulators (reg`s) will all have purge buttons on the front, which will allow the diver to clear water from the reg.
Most divers will have 2 reg`s attached to the first stage, the first one is the main reg that the diver normally uses, the second one (sometimes called the octopus) is reserved as a back up and can be used to allow another diver to breath from your tank. The octopus usually has a longer/yellow hose than the main reg.
The BCD will be attached to the first stage via a pressure hose.
The divers console will also be attached to the first stage via the high pressure slot and will contain the diver’s instruments.
Minimum requirement is a pressure gauge (show the tanks pressure or amount of air remaining in bar/psi/atm) and a depth gauge to indicate what depth the diver is at. Also recommended is a compass to allow navigation under water.
Back to TopThe Weight Belt
Once a diver is kitted out in full gear, especially when wearing a neoprene suit, he/she is surprisingly positively buoyant in the water. The weight belt is designed to counteract this effect.
The weight belt must be positioned so that in an emergency it can easily be removed and ditched if necessary.
The standard weight belt is usually lead blocks threaded through a web belt with a buckle.
Different types include belts with pouches allowing bags of lead shot to be inserted.
The amount a diver will have will depend on their body mass, type of equipment and experience.
Back to TopOther Equipment
Dive Computer
A Dive Computer is an electronic device usually worn on a diver's wrist that gathers information such as the depth, temperature and bottom time (length of time under water). It is used to help a diver work out how much time they can spend under water, and how long they have to wait on the surface between each dive.
Back to TopDive Knife
Usually carried by a diver and used a tool. The dive knife also forms part of the divers safety equipment.
Back to TopTorch
Can either be powered electrically or chemically and is used under low light conditions.
Back to TopSurface Marker Buoy
Brightly coloured buoy used to indicate to surface craft that divers are in the area (hey we're diving down here?).
Back to TopWhistle / Strobe Light
Part of the divers safety equipment, used to alert others to the divers presence (here I am!).
Back to TopDiver in Full Set-Up
This picture shows a diver with all his equipement on, and ready to dive!!!
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